The chassis is the foundation for your Hot Rod that requires some thought prior to building. I use original frames when possible but have used ASC rails, Lobeck’s and others over the years. Body mount holes, engine placement and rear end mounting requires some precise measuring prior to drilling and installing the components. Aftermarket components like P&J provide excellent instructions for installations and Wescott has drawings that help you make sure your frame is correct.
Experience tells me that original frames are the best if you can find a good one. Good frames have the holes in the right location and provide easy body mounting after you finish installing the parts and modifications. Aftermarket frames sometimes work out well but I have had some that are way off from original ones. Rat tail files correct most holes but out of square required cutting and re-welding the crossmembers. The choice is yours.
Having built 32-48 Ford chassis for the last 50 plus years, I am real familiar with the problems encountered with keeping the chassis straight while welding. I now have a jig that helps with the process. A chassis will spring after removing from the jig if you don’t weld it correctly. And I allow some room for that in my jig. You can also weld up your chassis without a jig, especially in the 33-48 Ford frames.
The early builds used buggy spring front and rear which gave way to coil overs, parallel leafs and MII front ends. Both of my cars utilize Heidt’s front ends. The Boyd car uses his own front and rear independent suspension made from billet aluminum. His cars ride really nice with this set up. Not sure what I will build next but I hoping for a Woodie Chassis like Fat Jacks. Walt’s Boss had one and it rode good but Walt replaced it with a MII unit.
I have some frames for you to view on this Frame Friday.
Stay Tooned!
Lynn
